Second-hand won't save the planet!

The climate emergency is forcing everyone to change the way they consume, particularly in the fashion sector. The environmental impact of fast fashion is considerable. The ADEME, Agence de l'Environnement et de la Maîtrise de l'Energie, has published a report on the subject entitled "La mode sans dessus-dessous", highlighting the following figures:
- 100 billion items of clothing are sold worldwide every year;
- the textile industry is the 3rd largest water-consuming sector in the world;
- 70% of clothing is made from synthetic fibers derived from petroleum, and these plastic microfibers release 500,000 tons of plastic into the oceans every year.

More and more eco-conscious consumers are becoming aware of the disastrous consequences of fast fashion, not only for the environment but also for people, with deplorable working conditions and the exploitation of children. The solution seems simple: stop buying new clothes. For some years now, the second-hand market has been booming. According to this linfodurable.fr article, the second-hand market is set to overtake fast fashion by 2028 .

Why are there more and more second-hand enthusiasts?

The reasons behind the craze for second-hand objects may be ethical, but they can also be economic. Indeed, at a time when the purchasing power of most households is stagnating, the idea of being able to save money is very appealing. Consumers of second-hand products tend to be young, between the ages of 25 and 37, and keen online shoppers, according to a study by the American website Thred Up.

The arguments for thrift stores and second-hand clothing platforms are simple and effective. This approach is both ecological and economical, and allows you to stay in fashion with vintage clothes or more recent collections. Buying second-hand is first and foremost an attempt to strike a balance between Western consumerism and the current climate emergency. We feel we're fighting against over-consumption and preserving the planet, while continuing to buy as much as before. The notions of agreen or circulareconomy are also put forward. By buying second-hand clothes, we're giving them a second life.

Recognize an ecological, ethical and slow-fashion product

A slow-fashion product or garment must be manufactured with respect for the environment, animals and the employees involved in production. The questions to ask are as follows:
- What materials are used to produce the garment I'm buying?
- Where were the garments made, and under what conditions ?
- How are the workers on the production line paid?

Ecology aims for a better balance between humans and their natural environment. An eco-responsible and ethical material respects the planet by reducing its ecological footprint as much as possible. To achieve this, it's essential to use available, sustainable resources, as opposed to synthetic fibers derived from petroleum, a finite fossil fuel. Eco-responsible materials include plant fibers (lyocell, cotton, hemp, coconut) and recycled plastic.

A slow-fashion garment must respect the workers involved in the production chain. This implies good working conditions (respect for labor law) and fair wages. Production is carried out at a local level to reduce transport and promote short circuits.

Second-hand, consumers still adept at over-consumption

In the above figures, it's interesting to note that the second-hand market isn 't really changing consumer habits. The quantity of clothes bought per person remains similar, and the main interest remains economic rather than ecological. A market that is now of interest to the major textile groups.

According to this article in Le Monde, "CO2, water, microplastic: fashion is one of the world's most polluting industries", a European buys over 12kg of clothes a year. This consumption increased by 40% between 1996 and 2012. With its low prices, the second-hand market encourages us to buy more and more. Much more than we actually need and use. Over-consumption habits are thus perpetuated in a new market, without any real change.

What's more, most of the clothes available at second-hand stores are fast-fashion items made from synthetic fibers. Clothes and materials are often of poor quality, so they are worn very little before becoming unusable. What's more, when these second-hand synthetic garments are washed, micro-particles of plastic also end up in the oceans. A danger to the ecology that persists even when we buy second-hand.

Unfortunately, second-hand platforms often encourage consumers to buy and resell clothes as soon as they need them. This principle is part of the foundation of over-consumption: buy without thinking too much, because it will always be easy to resell. Slow-fashion is not part of this philosophy, but is committed to the sustainable manufacture and use of high-quality clothing. These products are ethical, designed in limited series, without exploitation and at a fair price.

In a society where the law of supply and demand reigns, people's consumption determines production. This is the case for fast fashion and luxury brands. As long as the quantity of clothing purchased, whether new or second-hand, continues to grow, production in the textile industry will follow this trend. This over-consumption and over-production runs counter to the principles of ecology. Consumers therefore have the power to encourage ecoresponsible production that respects people and animals, by radically modifying their purchasing habits.

In addition, the use of marketing on second-hand sites continues the consumerist logic of fast-fashion. Promotions, the seasonal renewal of collections, bulk purchases to benefit from discounts, all encourage consumers to buy more than they should. The offers are very similar between fast-fashion boutiques and second-hand websites. The same marketing levers trigger buying desires that are totally disconnected from our real needs.

Slow fashion, the real sustainable alternative

In conclusion, buying second-hand doesn't fully address today's environmental and societal issues . Indeed, second-hand platforms exclusively offer fast-fashion products, and unfortunately there's no change in our consumption habits. If, on the contrary, these platforms were to offer ethical, ecological and slow-fashion clothing, this would make it possible to effectively combat over-consumption and protect the planet .